What I first thought of Rome and what I now think of Rome are two quite opposing statements. Initially I couldn't quite 'grasp' it, now I'm the (unofficial) ambassador of all things Roman, I love it. I get it. After visiting the Vatican City for a solid 4 hour tour with, again, someone passionate about what they were talking about it really dawned upon me what a fascinating city Rome is compared to most European capitals. Later that day a couple of us took a drive to San Lorenzo, had dinner there (rare sizzled beef with mushrooms, and a cheese/meat board - *favourite*) followed by a strong espresso at a coffee bar to wake us up. This did the trick. We stayed up chatting for hours, fine if you haven't got a train to catch to Naples at 10am. D'oh! Dreary-eyed, I almost unwillingly get myself on the train with the intention of visiting the island of Ischia off the Bay of Naples. I'm lucky enough to have had company, the friends I met in Rome decide to join me on the second day of island living. The first day I went to the thermal spa's which is what Ischia is pretty well known for. Hands up, I'll admit, they're a bit like glorified swimming pools. But, good news is I sat on the beach for a few hours soaking up some rays - the first time I've done this in Italy. We stayed in Forio, a small town (where no one speaks English) away from the tourists, showing off a pretty harbour and little village-y centre.

The following day in Ischia was the perfect end to my trip. We rented a boat out, drove around the island - anchored in the middle of nowhere and did nothing but watch the blue sky above and clear waters below. The boat, aptly self-named 'The Sea Angel', was perfect... 7 hours at sea, and with possible sun stroke, it was time to sadly dock :( Casa Lora, our accommodation, was a white-washed house up in the hills where the owner, Mirella, would provide a homecooked meal - today was vegetarian pasta, lamb with salad, lots of wine and a whole lot more Lemoncello shots to draw the night to a (dizzy) end. I was expecting Ischia to be a bit more 'paradise' like, but I was off the mark a bit. However, the boat ride more than gave a reason for Ischia to show us it's best offerings.

I've decided to come back to Rome early to spend my last night here. I'm meeting Ismael and Leena later, friends of my brother. I'm hoping that my new found lust for Rome means I can show them around for the night, just the way the locals have so perfectly done for me.. Last day tomorrow! :(

The 5 hour train ride to Rome made me tired, hot and restless. I'd read a book, listened to my iPod, read a magazine, thought about London's future, revisited the past - and although not homesick at all - I felt the need to exercise my mouth with people I knew. You'll be surprised to know I'm literally speaking 70% less here than to what I normally do back home (shock horror, I know). Goes with the territory of travelling alone I suppose.

I'm based in Trastevere, a homely neighbourhood out of town resembling that of Islington perhaps, specifically hand-picked for its reputation, its nightlife/restaurants and less touristy shmuck. My bnb, called Roma Trasteverina, is amazing - best yet in Italy for me (good ol' Tripadvisor, you've gotta love it). So what you've all been waiting for... I ate dinner alone in one of the busiest pizzeria's in Rome on a Saturday night! I haven't failed to notice that there are couples everywhere in Italy, and people expect a guy to come following behind me and, to their surprise, when they realise Mr-Wrong (ahem, I mean, Right) isn't carrying my bag, navigating me with a map or looking lovingly at the back of my head, they stare like I've just acquired a third eye; No malice intended I'm sure and I guess it is *the* romantic country, but objectively speaking I suppose it can appear a little strange. One guy even asked me whilst sitting with his wife, 'What are you doing eating alone in Trastevere?'. I explained, 'Relaxing on my holiday, enjoying life's pleasures and visiting an area I've heard a lot about, simple as that'. That shut him up ;) Chaos ensued around the restaurant, I had to wait 15min for a table outside. I was put right next to two other couples, which as mentioned before, is totally normal here.. And I get chatting to Selenia and Angelo, two psychologists living in Rome. Everyone is so friendly in Italy, coming from London that's such a foreign concept. Angelo was chatting away with me and his girlfriend offers to host me next time I'm in Rome. I mentioned I was trying to find a certain Piazza after dinner to meet some people and they walked me there, no questions asked! I think *this* is what's missing from London - a sense of altruism. Anyway, the food turned out average but the company was lovely. So I met Riccardo and his friend Lucia, two local Romans who have an interesting take on life, for drinks around Piazza Trilussa and then to the Campo de Fiori, equivalent to our trendy urban spots like Shoreditch where all the cool kids hang out. Regardless of coming from the Big City, I was feeling a slightly overwhelmed by being alone in Rome, the 32 degree heat didn't help the case! So this evening was just what I needed. Rome was buzzing, already so intriguing...

Having only two days in Rome and fitting in a million sites is a tough call. I visited Porta Portese in the morning, a market where you can get anything from an LED light for your remote control car to a half-priced stolen Louis Vuitton handbag. Afterwards, I hopped on the bus to the Colosseum (well, it wasn't that easy actually, confusing public transport system here). The heat was painful by this time. Paid a little extra to skip the two hour queue, got a guide, who was a little rubbish in all honestly. But walking around imagining what that must have been like thousands of years ago was fascinating. It's a shame only 30% of it exists now. We thankfully swap tour guides (it's like they read my mind) to David, a half-English, half-Italian free-spirited, charming Roman. Him and I have lunch together after and I have to admit, it was refreshing to have someone who 'got' my dry British sense of humour - that normally gets lost on non-Brits (not their fault really, we Londoners think we're well funny, innit?).

David recommended some gems around Rome for me - it went something like this: A *stunning* candlelit church with beautiful high-ceilings drenched with colourful painted stories, pizza at Pantherai restaurant hidden deep into an arched tunnel, cappucino at Cafe Eustachio where blissfully not a word of English was uttered, finished by a trip to the Pantheon - a must-see for any visit to Rome purely as an example of an 'almost complete' version of what it stood like when it was built in the ancient Rome period.

Tomorrow is another day - it will bring at least The Vatican City and Trevi Fountain, I know that for sure. The rest I'll tell you once I know myself.. ;)

Cinque Terre, translated to 'five lands', are 5 small character-laden old towns taking up a beautiful stretch of the Ligurian coast in North West Italy, a 2 hour train ride from Florence. After much research, I'd based myself in Monterosso with a population of only 1,900. Sounds promising already, no?

I stepped off the train not expecting the stunning sea view stretching from one corner of my eye to another. A short stroll later, I stumbled across BnB Marisa, with your typically Italian mother welcoming me into her humble casa. Again, 'no-speakee-me-englis'; That's okay, I'm in Italy, embracing to all.

Monterosso oozed the small-town charm, the dramatic cliff-faced coastline, crystal clear water and the tiniest of markets along the beach front. Admittedly I would have liked less tourists, but not surprisingly, this was quiet in comparison to June-August! I weaved my way around the narrow lanes of town, white linen hung on every line contrasting the colourful houses lining the cobbled streets, candle-lit churches so peaceful you could sleep in and friendly Italians 'Ciao Bella'-ing me in every direction.

I met Stefano, whose family own the beach & bar in the old town. As a fellow traveller, he prides himself in helping people get the most out of their experience in Cinque Terre and with me there was no exception; I was open to each and every recommendations by someone so passionate about their home-town, he's a true PR at heart ;) On both nights we dined in typically Ligurian restaurants - we had local wine, amazing smoked halibut with picked onions, tuna with tomato, squid and octopus salad finished by an indulgent Tiramisu [insert Italian accent] 'just how Mamma used to make it'. On the final night he undoubtedly got it right again - homemade fish Ravioli, and pasta stuffed with cheese, basil and nuts and Amaretto cream cake. (Yes, I know, I go into detail about food on my blog, but come on, I'm in Italy and you all know how much me and food get on!) There was a religious festival that night so the whole town, locals and tourists alike, watched a firework display into the night overlooking the beach and nearby cliff was romantically lit by candles, and then of course, in true Kejal-style, cocktails and conversations drew the night to an end :)

So the main reason I'd visited Cinque Terre was for the 12 km hike taking in each of the five towns, which I enthusiastically embarked upon the next morning after a Cappuccino to get the ol' metabolism working (well, I can hardly rely on my fitness, can I?) All I can say is *Oh-Em-Gee*. It was a blistering 30 degrees, stunning coastlines, countless number of rocky stairs (bane of my life, still), colourful vineyards and steep hiking all equalled one very sweaty-hot-heavy-breathing Indian tourist on a personal mission. It was gruelling at some points. I think I've got this pleasure/pain relationship with hikes, much like I do with life in general. They cause me pain, they create obstacles and there are uphill struggles; but I am graced with beauty upon my efforts, a sense of achievement and a feeling of fulfilment having explored the new and unknown, something that always ignites a spark in me. Doing it alone was particularly gratifying (although, admittedly, I did give myself the eye-of-the-tiger motivational kicks at the tough points. Let's keep that between you and me though). The prettiest town was Vernazza - when I put photos up, you'll see why. By the time I got into the last town of Riomaggiore I had jelly-like legs, swollen fingers, achey muscles and.. wait for it.. a tan!

It was back to Monterosso for a well-deserved shower and rest, followed by a chilled night out in town - after all.. I'm to get up early to catch my train to the much-anticipated Rome.. More to follow soon. X

P.s OUCH. Everything hurts, but the pain's well worth it ;)

Okay, so I spoke too soon, became a little complacement, if you will; My flight was indeed cancelled due to the Italian strike. Having waited 14 hours for the next flight, together with frantically booking another hotel as my one cancelled on me due to a lack of post-midnight check-in,my patience was being tested. However, silver lining there was; Olga came to my rescue. I spent the best part of 6 hours at hers near the airport trying to re-assemble my first day in Italy. So, back to the airport for take 2 - we finally departed at 20:45. Upon arrival in Florence, exhausted, I got a taxi to my BnB in Badia Fiorentina. I was graced by a hilariously authentic Italian experience. As I rang the doorbell past midnight in what looked like a dodgy dark alleyway, not hopeful for an answer, I hear the windows swing open above me with a top-naked old Italian man shouting at me in Italian, which later translated to (as the guys in the bar next door didn't fail to mention), "Eh, Mamma Mia, what is it?? I am trying to sleep here!!"... Erm.. "I have a reservation here!", I politely reply, the best way us British know how to.. "Oh! Come in, come in". This is Bruno, my host. He takes me a on a ten minute walk to my place for the night, to what was a wonderfully quaint studio apartment over looking Ponte Vecchio river. I took in beautifully grand sites, even on this shortest of walks. My mind and body were tired, but my senses awakened - Florence looked magical in the night air. Needless to say, I fell asleep the moment my head hit the cool, soft pillow. I've naively forgiven Italy for its strike too quickly, it's just too damn charming already to stay mad at.

The following morning, I took a wander back to my originally booked BnB, Le Seggiole, for my 2nd night and wasn't disappointed. Greeted by Ulrika, a smiley and very helpful Swede, her and a friend gave me tons of non-touristy recommendations - it's like they knew me already ;) They reserved me the best room in the house, given last nights circumstances, which featured a 400 year old original ceiling painting! A 'very special room', she said. I concurred. After a solid 8 hours wandering a town in which I only had one day to fall in love with, I took in the Uffizi Gallery, the central market, THE best trattiroa in Florence for amazing Tortelli di Patate, terrace view seating overlooking the Duomo and Cathedral, melt-in-your-mouth gelato from River Reno, coffee at Chiaro Scuro - a local coffee joint, topped off by watching the sun set over Piazzele Michaleango, offering panaromic sexy views of Florence.. Blissful (purposely with a capital B). The Italian way of life is already appealing - their effortless style, enviable culture and most noticeably how embracing and unawkward they are in comparison to the Brits. For example, both times I ate out in Florence, another Italian singleton is placed on the same table as me, right next to me, which is a totally normal here, and inevitably start chatting (however broken their English and my Italian is).

Florence is as picturesque as a postcard. You almost want to feel what you see to check it's real. I can't forget to mention how beautiful everyone is here, both men and women.. it almost seems unfair they're all so highly populated in one country ;) So as night fell, I took a stroll to Santa Spirito, where the local haunts are. Most of you who've read this far know I'm one for finding the hidden gems of a city and this followed suit. Volume bar and Pop cafe were amongst highlights - aperitifs, strong cocktails and hot barmen? You didn't hear me complaining... All in all, I tried (and succeeded) to make up for precious lost time. I'm most definitely inclined to visit again someday. Ciao for now!